A guide to one of the most beautiful padddling trips around:
The palisading linear hills first appear at McFarland. Put in your canoe and gear at the end of the Arrowhead.
Paddle north through Little John. In high water shoot the rumbling class one rapids into John Lake. With another diabase bluff on left head east past a fine pine-studded campsite to the north. The portage is on the right well before the back bay funnels into a river. Easy portage.
Paddle the scenic Royale River east then northwest at opening of Royale Lake.
Notice the hills, wildrice, tamarack, cedar and balsam; not to mention the muskrat lodges
On the left is the flat, longer but easy portage into South Fowl. The river crashes over beaver dams and through the island chain that seperates South and North Fowl Lakes. Long, linear diabase sills form the ridges all around you.
To the North is Canada. A couple bites of bass on a chubbed-out jig head with a leech later you step up a rock garden of a portage into Moose Lake.
At about four miles in length Moose is a good practice crossing for Mountain Lake. There is a great historic ledge rock and pine stand form the west shore. Moose Lake will produce walleye. Not much luck for us this day as we made camp on a site eating soup about midway along the south shore.
Troll your way out for the early morning bite into Moose Mountain. Near the end of the lake, cast off a small spinner tipped with some stink along the shores: particularily where those streams are coming in.
The Great Cherry Portage is an uphill climb going west. At 140 rods, it's not horribly long though. Slow down and look for critter while traveling through the Lily Lakes. Moose, beaver, water fowl, snakes in the water...
Mountain Lake is a gem. Cliffs line most of the southern American shore. The lake is more than 7 miles long. Lake Trout reign in her depths.
Fish the east outlet down the Pigeon River shallow with a spinner for small mouth bass.
There's some decent camping mid way down the lake on a broad point. The evening can be spent trolling with a white chub and leech along structure and the Lake Trout will feed. Land at your camp, put up gear and start a fire. Gut the fish and throw one fish on the fire per two. There really isn't a better meal than fresh lake trout over a fire and instant puddling!
Connect the points west crossing this large lake. The cliffs are impressive.
Jig your way out of the west side of the lake. Trout have been had all around the distinct point the protects the portage trail climbing the ridge over to Clearwater Lake. The Border Route trail intersects the portage at the top of the hill. Keep dropping straight ahead but keep yours wits about you for some grouse; especially if it is small game season.
Clearwater Lake is a classic. There are some great areas on the far east end of the lake. The cliffs provide habitat for plenty of birds of prey. Considering the increased mobility being a motorized lake, these cliffs begged to be climbed and the bays and narrows provide an excellent fishery. Take out at the Clearwater landing.
The total trip is 20 some miles. Gradual portages dispersed by moderate open water crossings. Great fishing. Give yourself a few days to enjoy.