A falling star shoots from Orion as the hunter rises in the east. The days are short. The temperatures at night have begun to fall below zero. Trees creak in the cold breeze under a waxing moon. There is a dusting of snow in the air and on the ground: another winter in the North.
Our thoughts have gone to shoveling, firewood, four wheel drive, long underwear, warm insulated boots, anoraks & choppers. Across the globe, Northerners are passing long nights with food, cards, tea, wool sweaters and music.
Waking at light, we go to work and come home to dark. I've almost forgotten some of the daily images of the property because I never see them during the daytime hours. The reality is that we're middle latitude and only a few weeks remain before the winter solstice. After that, the days only get longer.
I've spotted a number of fox recently. It seems like their numbers are up. An extremely rare wolverine was spotted outside of Lutsen. The largest member of the weasel family, wolverines are tenacious carnivores. Typically weighing less than 50 lbs they have been documented killing prey many times their size. With large ranges and low population densities it is very uncommon to spot one of these animals.
We are living on the land comfortably. In the past few weeks I've been busy doing wood chores, putting plastic on the windows, installing our bed frame, waging a war on mice to keep them out of our truck at night and planning our projects for the upcoming year...
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Firewood
I burned a fire in the stove today. Although there was certainly a slight nip to the North Shore air tonight; it is not cold. I lit the fire to remind myself that this work is worth it. The fire is burning to remind myself that my efforts, which have at times beat me to outright physical disrepair, is a commodity that will burn long and keep us warm all winter.
I'm not minimizing the situation. The nights are getting longer and colder. Most recent nights we've been honestly burning the stove to keep warm.
It's true: winter is coming. To northerners this time of the year means but one thing; it's a time of chopping wood. Doting wool and fleece for the first time since spring is occasion enough to dust off the splitting maul and get to work. My job this fall is simple: split 3 cords of birch and one cord of poplar. This should be enough wood to burn in our stove for the winter.
Splitting, however, is the last step in processing firewood. One can pay to get their wood supply delivered split. I for one am that that type of person (at least while I'm young) to do it themselves. To me splitting wood has simply become another chore that I do that takes my mind off of the "normal" life qualms. It gives me an opportunity to exert energy on something that doesn't think or feel or has the ability to tell me off. In turn, I'm able to simply beat the snot out of it. It's great anger management! Don't get me wrong, I'm not an angry person. Processing wood is just another activity that helps me direct the rest of my constructive energy towards the things in my life that merit it.
On the physical level, there's an old saying that processing firewood warms you twice. I agree. In fact I'd say that it warms you five times: felling, bucking, splitting, stacking, and burning.
I'm not minimizing the situation. The nights are getting longer and colder. Most recent nights we've been honestly burning the stove to keep warm.
It's true: winter is coming. To northerners this time of the year means but one thing; it's a time of chopping wood. Doting wool and fleece for the first time since spring is occasion enough to dust off the splitting maul and get to work. My job this fall is simple: split 3 cords of birch and one cord of poplar. This should be enough wood to burn in our stove for the winter.
Splitting, however, is the last step in processing firewood. One can pay to get their wood supply delivered split. I for one am that that type of person (at least while I'm young) to do it themselves. To me splitting wood has simply become another chore that I do that takes my mind off of the "normal" life qualms. It gives me an opportunity to exert energy on something that doesn't think or feel or has the ability to tell me off. In turn, I'm able to simply beat the snot out of it. It's great anger management! Don't get me wrong, I'm not an angry person. Processing wood is just another activity that helps me direct the rest of my constructive energy towards the things in my life that merit it.
On the physical level, there's an old saying that processing firewood warms you twice. I agree. In fact I'd say that it warms you five times: felling, bucking, splitting, stacking, and burning.
Friday, November 4, 2011
First Snow
The ponds along the Gunflint Trail are freezing. A blanket of snow has covered the Superior North Shore. The gales of November sweep across Lake Superior. Waves crash ashore in a thunderous applause along the cobble beaches. Nightfall comes early. My eyes are slowly adjusting to the prolonged darkness.
I just finished trimming out the windows. There's not much better than working with quality pine. There's also not much that makes a place look finished than cased windows!
I just finished trimming out the windows. There's not much better than working with quality pine. There's also not much that makes a place look finished than cased windows!
One of our newly finished windows.
Luna sitting at her post on the top of the driveway.
First snow cover of the season...
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Seven Billion
As of today, seven billion humans inhabit the earth. That's almost 122 people per each square mile of earth's land mass! Humans, like the growing number of snow buntings leading us down the early morning country road are growing swiftly in numbers.
This fact takes me back. It makes me realize how finite of a planet we live on. It reminds me that everyone, starting in our small community of the shore of Lake Superior, needs to be responsible and sustainable in our consumption and management of earth's resources.
The thought of seven billion people on earth leads me to reflect on the resources that I consume. After all, my project continues. I'm clearing and burning balsam fir. I spend my early evenings racing sunset by splitting birch firewood and hauling water from the well. There was a beautiful wolf on the Gunflint Trail this afternoon. Rifle season on deer opens this weekend. We have meat, fish and berries in the freezer. I drive to town everyday for work.
In my opinion, every human on this planet has to honestly reflect on how they live. Everyone needs to do what they can do to live as sustainable as possible. It's the only way that the burgeoning human population is going to thrive on this finite earth.
7,000,000,000 people and 1 rock: the numbers say it all in this one...
This fact takes me back. It makes me realize how finite of a planet we live on. It reminds me that everyone, starting in our small community of the shore of Lake Superior, needs to be responsible and sustainable in our consumption and management of earth's resources.
The thought of seven billion people on earth leads me to reflect on the resources that I consume. After all, my project continues. I'm clearing and burning balsam fir. I spend my early evenings racing sunset by splitting birch firewood and hauling water from the well. There was a beautiful wolf on the Gunflint Trail this afternoon. Rifle season on deer opens this weekend. We have meat, fish and berries in the freezer. I drive to town everyday for work.
In my opinion, every human on this planet has to honestly reflect on how they live. Everyone needs to do what they can do to live as sustainable as possible. It's the only way that the burgeoning human population is going to thrive on this finite earth.
7,000,000,000 people and 1 rock: the numbers say it all in this one...
Monday, October 24, 2011
Acclimating to the Cold
The sun shimmers off of Lake Superior. I'm sitting with a cup of coffee in front of the crackling stove while the black cap chickadees feed in the spruce outside my window. It's another gorgeous autumn morning in the northwoods!
There was no frost last night as there has been most recent mornings. Luna found fresh pine marten scat on the road.
Over the past couple of weekends I've implemented another round of clearing. This time the goal is to open the top acre and a half above our cabin where the home will someday be. The expanse of the lake is showing itself with every balsam fir that drops.
I've learned to only cut a fast as you can burn. I should, however, be able to burn a pile this evening since a few drops of rain fell last night.
To me this is the coldest time of the year. Even though the temperatures are nothing in comparison to the sub zero temp that will persist in January, my body has yet to acclimatize to the weather. The thirty degree air leaves me shivering and digging out wool sweaters from our cedar chest. By the time the real winter cold is here I will be used to it and by March thirty degrees will be considered tee shirt weather!
There was no frost last night as there has been most recent mornings. Luna found fresh pine marten scat on the road.
Over the past couple of weekends I've implemented another round of clearing. This time the goal is to open the top acre and a half above our cabin where the home will someday be. The expanse of the lake is showing itself with every balsam fir that drops.
I've learned to only cut a fast as you can burn. I should, however, be able to burn a pile this evening since a few drops of rain fell last night.
To me this is the coldest time of the year. Even though the temperatures are nothing in comparison to the sub zero temp that will persist in January, my body has yet to acclimatize to the weather. The thirty degree air leaves me shivering and digging out wool sweaters from our cedar chest. By the time the real winter cold is here I will be used to it and by March thirty degrees will be considered tee shirt weather!
Although the lense on the camera doesn't serve this view justice you can see Lake Superior along the horizon. At this point I've cleared all the balsam fir in the view shed from the home site to the cabin. This winter I'll knock the poplar trees that you see in the foreground to really open up this space!
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Changes in Trajectory
A shooting star drops through the atmosphere on a chilly autumn night. Suddenly, without any apparent reason it changes it's trajectory and glows as bright as ever as it fades into the ink black sky.
It leaves me with a chill down my spine. It's a metaphor for life. As you move through time change is inevitable. You don't know if that change in trajectory will be a bright or dull moment. Eventually or rather inevitably, it all fades back into the elements.
The next morning an eagle soared a blustery autumn wind over the forest. It's six foot wingspan casted a momentary shadow over me. The fleeting shadow came and went as fast as this magnificent aviary soared it's thermal to new heights.
I now find myself under a midnight sky watching an iron ore freighter sail north along the shore of Superior. It's deck lights floating in stark contrast with the horizon.
The change that my efforts bring to this place is one thing. Cognisant of it or not, the natural elements provide the real energy for this land. Although everything in life has energy of some form, the more I experience the more life encourages me to expose myself to the raw elements of the world. I am ready for what that energy brings me. I am willing to ebb and flow with it. I am ready for the changes in trajectory that may come...
It leaves me with a chill down my spine. It's a metaphor for life. As you move through time change is inevitable. You don't know if that change in trajectory will be a bright or dull moment. Eventually or rather inevitably, it all fades back into the elements.
The next morning an eagle soared a blustery autumn wind over the forest. It's six foot wingspan casted a momentary shadow over me. The fleeting shadow came and went as fast as this magnificent aviary soared it's thermal to new heights.
I now find myself under a midnight sky watching an iron ore freighter sail north along the shore of Superior. It's deck lights floating in stark contrast with the horizon.
The change that my efforts bring to this place is one thing. Cognisant of it or not, the natural elements provide the real energy for this land. Although everything in life has energy of some form, the more I experience the more life encourages me to expose myself to the raw elements of the world. I am ready for what that energy brings me. I am willing to ebb and flow with it. I am ready for the changes in trajectory that may come...
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Friday, October 14, 2011
Post Peak
Paddled Ram to Poplar Lake last weekend. The trip traverses the Misquah Hills through some of the highest lakes in the state. It takes quite a bit of "puddle hopping" through small lakes and over long, rugged, seldom-traveled portages to complete this route but the views are well worth it!
The hills lost most of their glitter in a single day when 50 mile per hour wind gusts scattered the foliage on to the forest floor.
Moose and bear season close this weekend while small game and bow season on deer continue.
We've been busy harvesting apples and stacking firewood.
Three tenths of an inch of much-needed rain feel yesterday lifting the ban on fires. Now that the trees have lost their leaves my mind has shifted towards my winter project of clearing the one and a half acre homesite.
We spotted a lone wolf trotting on the side of the road last night in the rain.
The hills lost most of their glitter in a single day when 50 mile per hour wind gusts scattered the foliage on to the forest floor.
Moose and bear season close this weekend while small game and bow season on deer continue.
We've been busy harvesting apples and stacking firewood.
Three tenths of an inch of much-needed rain feel yesterday lifting the ban on fires. Now that the trees have lost their leaves my mind has shifted towards my winter project of clearing the one and a half acre homesite.
We spotted a lone wolf trotting on the side of the road last night in the rain.
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Poplar popping
A cold windy autumn day with occasional rain showers. Trees are in full show right now. Poplar and birch are golden yellows. Maples are brilliant red. The Sawtooth Mountains stand in full glory over the dark blues of the windswept Lake Superior.
We're busy getting the homestead ready for winter. I've bucked most of the wood. Now I just have a pile to split and stack. About 2 cords are already stacked.
We installed the hand pump on our well this weekend. Installed a bathroom door. Replaced our sheetrock countertops with butcher block.
The growing season is over. The buckwheat has been tilled back into the garden. We've been boosting the compost with greens from the garden.
Hawks and eagles are in the air. Yesterday our morning drive into town was greeted by an immature Bald Eagle flying low over the Devils Track River gorge. About 50 black birds were on the road a couple of evenings ago. There was no obvious road kill around. Bears are in season and in need of life giving calories. A skunk has taken up residence in our neighbors culvert. We're hesitant to bring the dog down there. Despite an open small game season a grouse has been lingering close to the house.
The brisk evenings are spent reading with Poplar popping in the woodstove...
We're busy getting the homestead ready for winter. I've bucked most of the wood. Now I just have a pile to split and stack. About 2 cords are already stacked.
We installed the hand pump on our well this weekend. Installed a bathroom door. Replaced our sheetrock countertops with butcher block.
The growing season is over. The buckwheat has been tilled back into the garden. We've been boosting the compost with greens from the garden.
Hawks and eagles are in the air. Yesterday our morning drive into town was greeted by an immature Bald Eagle flying low over the Devils Track River gorge. About 50 black birds were on the road a couple of evenings ago. There was no obvious road kill around. Bears are in season and in need of life giving calories. A skunk has taken up residence in our neighbors culvert. We're hesitant to bring the dog down there. Despite an open small game season a grouse has been lingering close to the house.
The brisk evenings are spent reading with Poplar popping in the woodstove...
McFarland to Clearwater via Mountain and Moose Lakes
A guide to one of the most beautiful padddling trips around:
The palisading linear hills first appear at McFarland. Put in your canoe and gear at the end of the Arrowhead.
Paddle north through Little John. In high water shoot the rumbling class one rapids into John Lake. With another diabase bluff on left head east past a fine pine-studded campsite to the north. The portage is on the right well before the back bay funnels into a river. Easy portage.
Paddle the scenic Royale River east then northwest at opening of Royale Lake.
Notice the hills, wildrice, tamarack, cedar and balsam; not to mention the muskrat lodges
On the left is the flat, longer but easy portage into South Fowl. The river crashes over beaver dams and through the island chain that seperates South and North Fowl Lakes. Long, linear diabase sills form the ridges all around you.
To the North is Canada. A couple bites of bass on a chubbed-out jig head with a leech later you step up a rock garden of a portage into Moose Lake.
At about four miles in length Moose is a good practice crossing for Mountain Lake. There is a great historic ledge rock and pine stand form the west shore. Moose Lake will produce walleye. Not much luck for us this day as we made camp on a site eating soup about midway along the south shore.
Troll your way out for the early morning bite into Moose Mountain. Near the end of the lake, cast off a small spinner tipped with some stink along the shores: particularily where those streams are coming in.
The Great Cherry Portage is an uphill climb going west. At 140 rods, it's not horribly long though. Slow down and look for critter while traveling through the Lily Lakes. Moose, beaver, water fowl, snakes in the water...
Mountain Lake is a gem. Cliffs line most of the southern American shore. The lake is more than 7 miles long. Lake Trout reign in her depths.
Fish the east outlet down the Pigeon River shallow with a spinner for small mouth bass.
There's some decent camping mid way down the lake on a broad point. The evening can be spent trolling with a white chub and leech along structure and the Lake Trout will feed. Land at your camp, put up gear and start a fire. Gut the fish and throw one fish on the fire per two. There really isn't a better meal than fresh lake trout over a fire and instant puddling!
Connect the points west crossing this large lake. The cliffs are impressive.
Jig your way out of the west side of the lake. Trout have been had all around the distinct point the protects the portage trail climbing the ridge over to Clearwater Lake. The Border Route trail intersects the portage at the top of the hill. Keep dropping straight ahead but keep yours wits about you for some grouse; especially if it is small game season.
Clearwater Lake is a classic. There are some great areas on the far east end of the lake. The cliffs provide habitat for plenty of birds of prey. Considering the increased mobility being a motorized lake, these cliffs begged to be climbed and the bays and narrows provide an excellent fishery. Take out at the Clearwater landing.
The total trip is 20 some miles. Gradual portages dispersed by moderate open water crossings. Great fishing. Give yourself a few days to enjoy.
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